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San Diego, CA  Visual Artist  & Educator Denise J. Bonaimo

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Hammered Squiggle Component

squiggle
Similiar to the Wave Component, the Squiggle starts off the same, yet departs after Step 4, as the plier position is altered to create longer lengths between the curves in the middle of the component. Use the squiggle to link in between wire wrapped beads. Please note: Since every pair of pliers is different, the width of your waves will change based upon the size of the jaws on your particular pliers.

Tools: Round Nose Pliers and Side Cutter, Ball Peen Hammer, Steel Block.
Materials: round, dead soft wire. Recommended Gauge- 22- 18 gauge.

1) Turn a simple "P" loop at the end of your wire. Click here for Simple Loop Instructions.

2) Using the thickest point on the jaws of your round nose pliers (all the way at the bottom), position your wire perpendicular into the jaws. (Fig. 1 of Simple Loop Instructions)

3) Holding firmly, use your thumb to push the wire tightly up against the upper plier jaw* into a “U” shape. (Fig. 2 of Simple Loop Instructions)

4) Loosen your grasp; lift the wire and FLIP the wire end (like you are turning a page in a book) so is now on the original side it began. (Fig. 3 of Simple Loop Instructions)

5) Reposition the wire back into the bottom of your lower plier jaw**, this time move a little FURTHER AWAY from the center line of your simple loop.

6) Repeat Steps 3 and 4. This is your middle (and longest length) wave.

7) Loosen your grasp; flip the wire so the tail is now on the original side it began.

8) Reposition the wire back into the bottom of your lower plier jaws**, this time move a little CLOSER to the center line of your simple loop. (Match it the one made previous to the middle wave.)

9) Repeat one more time, again moving EVEN CLOSER the center line of the simple loop.

10) Snip 1/8"- 1/4” from the end of your last complete wave and turn a simple loop with your round nose pliers.

11) Put down the pliers.

12) Tape your component to the steel block.

13) Use the ball peen hammer to planish (hammer flat) the steps and the straight tail. Do not hammer the loops at the ends.

* upper plier jaw- the jaw further away from you, when you hold the pliers perpendicular to your face when you look at it from a birds-eye view.

*lower plier jaw- the jaw closest to you.

Denise Bonaimo

Jewelry Designer and Instructor

www.bonaimo.com

artdiva@bonaimo.com