uncommon jewelry designs, fine art photography &  adult and youth jewelry classes

San Diego, CA  Visual Artist  & Educator Denise J. Bonaimo

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Fig. 1	Fig. 2	Fig. 3	Fig. 4	Fig. 5

This loop is used with head pins to create a bead dangle (such as for a pendant or earring) or with a straight piece of wire (dead-soft works best) when you want to put a loop on either side of your bead to create linked units. Since this loop can be easily pulled open, recommended wire gauge size is 18g or thicker. Remember the lower the number, the thicker the gauge.

Tools: Round Nose Pliers and Side Cutters.

Materials: Head pins (at least 1/2" longer than the length of your bead) or dead soft wire in 18 guage or thicker, and beads with holes that fit on the wire, but not over the head pin's base.

If you want to make a bead dangle on a headpin( Fig. 4):

1) Start with a headpin that is at least 1/4" longer than your bead. SLIDE your bead on it so it is flush up againt the base of the headpin.

2) SNIP your remaining wire so you have just enough wire to turn another loop of equal size on the other end of the bead. (Usually about 1/8" - 1/4"; this will vary depending on the width of your loop and gauge of the wire).

3) Position your pliers on the end of the wire. The bead should be flush up against the base of the head pin and extending out towards your free hand side.

4) Use your thumb to press the bead/wire around the jaws to turn a loop.

• You will get to a point where the bead will obstruct you from continuing to turn your loop. To complete the loop, loosen your grip on the wire and rotate the pliers a bit to give yourself more room to continue turning. You are done when the tip of the wire touches the body of the wire.
• There shouldn't be any gaps between the bead and the loop.

If you want to make a bead link with loops on both sides (Fig. 5):

1) Start with a length of wire at least 2 inches longer than your bead.

2) Hold your round nose pliers in your dominant hand.

• When beginning, hold your pliers straight up and down; you should be looking at them in profile. Always come back to this starting position to check to see if your design is heading in the right direction.

3) Choose a spot on the plier jaws that will make a loop the thickness you prefer. Grasp the tip of one end of the wire with your round nose pliers at your desired spot. Position of the wire on a horizontal plane and the pliers a vertical plane perpendicular to the wire. At eye level, the wire and the pliers intersect in a “L”.

• You should be able to feel a little bit of the wire poking out on the one side, but the majority of the wire should be protruding out towards the side closest to your free hand because this is the hand that is does the pressing. (Figure 1)

4) TURN A "P" LOOP. Using your thumb on your free hand, press the wire firmly against the jaws of the pliers. (Your thumb should touch both the wire and the pliers to get a nice snug fit.) Simultaneously, rotate your plier hand inward until the wire tip and wire body touch to turn a loop.(Figure 2)

Tip: You will get to a point where the pliers will obstruct you from continuing to turn your loop. To complete the loop, loosen your grip on the wire and rotate the pliers a bit to give yourself more room to continue turning. (Figure 3)

5) Straighten out the "Lazy Head". Once you turn your "P" loop it will not be level. It will lean to one side.
To correct this:

• Use the tip of your round nose pliers. (The tips of your round nose pliers create a nice hard angle.)
• Anchor the loop head by placing one tip within the loop and the other tip at the point where the tip of the wire meets the body of the wire (on the side that you want the head to move towards.) (Not shown)
  
• Squeeze tight with your pliers, apply pressure with your thumb or finger to the Neck (right below the loop) and push the Stem (the long protruding part) of the wire so it moves into a position straight beneath the center of the Head.

6) SLIDE your bead on the wire.

7) SNIP your remaining wire so you have just enough wire to turn another loop of equal size on the other end of the bead. (Usually about 1/8" - 1/4"; this will vary depending on the width of your loop and gauge of the wire).

8) Reposition your pliers on the end of the wire. The bead should be flush up against the loop and extending out towards your free hand side.

9) Use your thumb to press the bead around the jaws to turn a second "P" loop.

• You will get to a point where the bead will obstruct you from continuing to turn your loop. To complete the loop, loosen your grip on the wire and rotate the pliers a bit to give yourself more room to continue turning. You are done when the tip of the wire touches the body of the wire.
• There shouldn't be any gaps between the bead and the loops.

10) Straighten out the "Lazy Head" if necessary.

More Tips:

Determining Loop Size:
The width of your loop is determined by the width on the cone shaped jaws of the pliers in which you choose to wrap. To make a tiny loop, position the wire near the top of your jaws; to make a wider loop choose a spot closer to the base of your pliers. It is helpful to use a permanent marker to mark this spot for future reference.

Different pliers have various width jaws, this too, will affect where you place the wire when determining the width of the loop.

Different gauge wire will require different starting length measurements.

You may want to take a physical measurement or make a mental note of the amount of wire you use to turn the loop, as you will need to repeat it later; consistancy is key.

Loops on bead links should be either perpendicular to each other or parallel. Which ever direction you choose, stick with it to be consistant throughout your design.

Denise J. Bonaimo
Jewelry Designer and Instructor
www.bonaimo.com